A road trip: A quick guide to the 21 historic Spanish Missions

Written by Parriva — April 23, 2023
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Starting in 1769, Spain began building a series of 21 missions along Alta California, from San Diego to Sonoma, as a way to settle the new frontier. California’s mission era ended in 1834, but you can still see the enduring architectural legacy in the state’s red-tile roofs, whitewashed walls, arched colonnades, and bell towers.

The missions were built approximately 30 miles apart, a nearly day-long horseback ride, and span a total of 650 miles. All of the 21 missions are open to the public and have gift shops and a museum; furthermore, in most of them, masses are celebrated on Sundays (or even daily). Read on for the unique quirks to see in each mission, listed here from south to north.

1. Mission Basilica of San Diego de Alcalá, San Diego

Built in 1769 and completely restored in 1931, this mission has an astonishing 14 meter high bell tower with five bells, the largest of which weighs 544 kilos. Information signs guide visitors through the bougainvillea-draped buildings and immaculate gardens. Masses are celebrated every day; guided tours are available and must be requested in advance.

2. Old Mission San Luis Rey de Francia, Oceanside

Known as the “King of the missions”, San Luis Rey is framed in a 2.4-hectare central plaza, marked by an octagonal dome at the top of the building. A huge outdoor laundry is now an ornamental sunken garden. Be sure to check out the tiled stairs, stone pools, and carved gargoyles that once spouted water from their snouts. California’s first pepperoni, planted in 1830, grows in the Mission Plaza.

3. Mission San Juan Capistrano, San Juan Capistrano

Every March, the town of San Juan Capistrano welcomes the return of migratory swallows, which spend most of the year at the mission before flying 6,000 miles to Argentina in the winter. Take an audio or guided tour to learn more about Capistrano’s swallows. Then, cross the railroad tracks at Capistrano Depot and you’ll arrive in California’s oldest neighborhood: the Los Rios district. The houses date from 1794 and were built to house the mission builders and hacienda workers. Today, they are private residences, shops and restaurants.

4. San Gabriel Archangel, San Gabriel Valley

This fortress-like mission boasts a 150-acre vineyard, the largest in the mission complex. Its bell tower houses six bells; the oldest was cast in 1795. Highlights: The altar framed by a grand round skylight and the hand-forged copper baptismal font of King Charles III of Spain.

5. Mission San Fernando Rey de España, Mission Hills, San Fernando Valley

In the 1850s, gold-hungry prospectors dug up the church floor several times, certain that there was treasure buried beneath. The well-kept buildings and grounds include a convent, vineyard, gardens, and colonnades with 20 arches. Actor Bob Hope and other Los Angeles celebrities are buried in the cemetery.

6. Old Mission San Buenaventura, Ventura

A hand-built masonry aqueduct brought water 11 kilometers from the Ventura River to “the Mission by the Sea.” At its most prosperous, this little mission had more than 41,000 head of cattle. Don’t miss the ornate tiled fountain, the asymmetrical bell tower with five bells, and a garden surrounded by palm trees.

7. Old Santa Barbara Mission, Santa Barbara

The only mission in California to have two identical bell towers, the “Queen of the Missions” features a magnificent Moorish fountain, spectacular rose gardens, and an inlaid abalone Chumash altar from the 1790s. Part of the original aqueduct is used currently in the city of Santa Barbara.

8. Old Mission Santa Ines, Solvang

The manicured gardens and well-preserved paintings and frescoes on the walls make this one of the most attractive and colorful missions on the list. The museum houses a large collection of 19th century silk garments. Golden pastures and oak-clad hills frame the view from the chapel’s entrance.

9. Mission La Purísima Concepción de María Santísima, Lompoc

Now a state historical park, this mission is the most completely restored of the set. Ten of the original buildings remain, including the church, blacksmith shop, and residences. Trails for walking and horseback riding cover the 780-hectare grounds where the farm’s animals graze. Educational demonstrations and living history activities take place frequently.

10.San Luis Obispo de Tolosa Mission, San Luis Obispo

In 1776, several of the indigenous people hostile to the mission launched burning arrows on the thatched roof, which led the missionaries to learn how to make tile roofs. Red tile roofs became the rule for the missions. Surrounded by a bustling central plaza and a lush garden of fruit trees and grapes, the adobe walls are adorned with centuries-old artwork.

11.Mission San Miguel, San Miguel

This National Historic Landmark houses colorful frescoes on the walls painted by indigenous people in 1821. Walk through the shaded colonnade containing 12 arches of varying sizes and shapes. An elegant fountain and a Spanish cannon dating from 1697 are surrounded by 30 species of cactus, roses, and olive trees.

12.Mission San Antonio de Padua, Jolon, Fort Hunter Liggett

A land donation from William Randolph Hearst left the environment around this mission intact. Its pristine location and a well-curated museum make it one of the best to visit. Listen to mission-era music and visit the orchards and grape-crushing vat.

13.Our Lady of Solitude Mission, Soledad

Known as “the mission of bad luck,” this place has had an unhappy history of epidemics, floods, and lost crops. Left in ruins for nearly a century, the building was beautifully restored in 1954. Visit the small rustic chapel and the neat rose garden.

14.Mission San Carlos Borromeo del Río Carmelo, Carmel

Tour the original paintings and statues, the massive holy water font, cobblestone paths, and flower-filled courtyards at this beautiful Moorish-style mission. The museum exhibits focus on everyday aspects of mission life: furniture, tools, and clothing. Father Junipero Serra, who founded 9 of the 21 missions, is buried under the sanctuary.

15.Mission San Juan Bautista, San Juan Bautista

Located among the Old West shops of San Juan Bautista, this mission sits right next to the San Andreas Fault. The massive church contains three naves and a magnificent altar. Look for animal claw prints in the altar tiles. Film buffs will recognize this mission from Hitchcock’s 1958 thriller, Vertigo.

16.Holy Cross Church, Santa Cruz

The original adobe church from 1795 was destroyed by an earthquake in 1857, then rebuilt in 1931 at less than half its original size. The gift shop/museum houses a collection of ancient silk vestments sewn with gold and silver thread.

17.Mission Santa Clara de Asis, Santa Clara

A gift from King Carlos IV of Spain, the bell of the Santa Clara mission has rung religiously every night since 1798. This rebuilt mission sits on the campus of Santa Clara University. Walk through its garden to see a 150-year-old wisteria, antique roses, and a cork oak tree that was used to make bottle corks in the mission days.

18.Mission San Jose de Guadalupe, Fremont

Take a guided tour of the reconstructed mission building (the original from 1797 was destroyed in an 1868 earthquake) and see the ancient Spanish pipe organ. A small museum has fascinating exhibits on the California rancho period and the mission’s fruit and olive oil production.

19.Mission San Francisco de Asís, San Francisco

Also known as Mission Dolores after a nearby creek, this mission is the oldest intact building in San Francisco, dating back to 1776. A 90-minute guided tour takes you through the mission, museum, rose garden, and cemetery, where over 5000 Native Americans and California pioneers are buried. Highlight: The dazzling stained glass windows of the basilica, depicting the 21 missions.

20.Mission San Rafael Arcángel, San Rafael

Built in sunny San Rafael as California’s first hospital, this mission treated sick Native Americans from the damp and foggy Mission San Francisco. The building is a 1949 replica of the original, but its museum contains historical artifacts including three of the mission’s original bells.

21. Mission San Francisco Solano, Sonoma

The last mission built in California was planned by a very ambitious father who acted without Church approval. This rustic mission, now part of a state historic park, is located on the central square of Sonoma alongside gourmet restaurants and high-end boutiques. Don’t miss the watercolor paintings and the 19th-century garden that was replanted with cacti and olive trees.

 

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